Free Pattern: How to Crochet an LOL Doll Punk Boy Inspired Doll

As promised after I got the basic doll pattern released, I have released Punk Boy! Yay!

20181025_140140

Wanna make him?

The first thing you’ll need to do is go back to the following post to make the basic doll body pattern: https://tawnybee.com/?p=1040

And if you prefer video tutorials, I have Youtube version posted here: https://youtu.be/2iNkcWU-1TA

Time Needed: Well it’ll take some time to make the body and then for the facial features, hair, clothing that is featured in this pattern it’ll probably take a few hours for sure. I would set aside some time or do it in spurts.

Skill Needed: Basic knowledge of crochet, sc, hdc, dc, slip stitch, chain, able to make colour changes and crochet in the round.

Materials Needed:

  • black, white, brown, red, blue, purple dark grey, skin toned worsted weight yarn (all are very small amounts)
  • G sized crochet hook
  • embroidery thread in a few different colours for mouth and freckes, and any other details you want to include.
  • yarn sewing needle
  • stitch markers
  • embroidery needle
  • scissors

First thing you’ll have to do is make the basic LOL doll body. Then start with the instructions below.

Begin with the eyes: (Make 2)

with black yarn and a g sized crochet hook, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from the hook (6)

switch to brown yarn

2sc in each stitch around (12)

switch back to black yarn

sc in the next 5 stitches

switch to white yarn

sc in every stitch to the beginning of the round (where the black starts. Finish with a slip stitch.  Fasten off all colours, leave black and white thread a bit longer in order to sew the eyes to the doll head. Use the white and black thread to sew eyes in place on middle of head. The eyes take up pretty much the entire face is they do on real LOL dolls.

Use skin toned yarn to stitch a nose. I just place a few stitches in between the eyes. LOL dolls don’t have much of a nose, so a few stitches will do. Use embroidery thread to sew a mouth and freckles. I sewed about 15 mouths on before I found that a simple black circle worked best. Try a few different versions and let me know what works for you! 😀

20180710_212203

Next, we’ll move onto hair:

With purple or lavender (I made one of each as you can see from the picture. The lavender shows the black details in the hair better and is more like Punk Boy’s colour change.)

ch 2, sc 6 in 2nd chain from the hook (6)

2 sc in each stitch (12)

2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc, repeat around (18)

2 sc in next stitch, sc in each of the next 2 stitches, repeat around (24)

2 sc in next stitch, sc in each of the next 3 stitches, repeat around (30)

2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, sc 12, repeat (36)

2 sc in each of the next 2 stitches, sc 16, repeat (40)

Now we switch from crocheting in the round, to crocheting back and forth in rows to form the back of the hair.

ch 1, turn, sc in the next 20 stitches

ch 1, turn, sc across for 20 sttiches for 4 rows

ch 1, turn, sc2tog twice, 12 sc, sc2tog twice (16)

ch 1, turn, sc2tog twice, 8 sc, sc2tog twice (12)

ch 1, turn, sc around the entire piece making sure to place sc evenly up the sides of the hair. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Mohawk: Make 2 pieces with blue yarn

  1. ch 5, turn, sc in each ch to end (4)

2. ch 1, turn, sc 3, ch 2

3. turn, sc in 2nd chain from the hook and in each stitch across (4)

repeat rows 2 and 3 unti mohawk measures almost the end of the hair piece when placed in the centre middle. I ended up with 10 “spikes”. Do not fasten off, continue to make the smaller “tail” of the mohawk next.

  1. turn, ch 1, sc 1

2. ch 2, turn sc 2

repeat these two lines one more time. Fssten off with a long tail for sewing. Make another mohaek piece. Use 1 long tail to sew the pieces together to make a stronger mohawk piece that will stand up. Before attaching the mohawk piece to the wig piece use black yarn to embroider V shaped patterning on the wig. Attach wig to the doll head using the long tail that was left. Use the 2nd blue tail from the mohawk piece to sew the mohawk in place. Use the remaining long tail from the  to sew the “triangle” piece of hair at the top front of the forehead.

Ears: Make 2 with skin toned coloured yarn

Ch 4, sc in 2nd chain from the hook, sc in the next 2 chains. Fasten off. Shape them in desired way and sew them onto the sides of the head now that the hair is in place.

Shorts:

With dark grey yarn

Attach yarn to any of those unworked front loops on the back of the doll body. Holding the doll upside down, ch 1 and sc in each unworked stitch around (30)

 

sc in each stitch around for 4 rounds (30)

if you are not at the centre back of the project when the 4th rounds is finished, place a few sc to get you there.

Skip 14 stitches, sc in centre from front to back (between the legs) to form the crotch.

sc around first leg

sc around second leg

Fasten off with tail. Use the tail to sew up the crotch better if needed. Weave in end.

T-shirt: Use white yarn, make 2 pieces

ch 16

turn, sc in 2nd ch from the hook and every chain until the end (15)

ch 1, turn, sc across for 2 rows (15)

ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc 11, sc2tog (13)

ch 1, turn, sc2tog twice, sc 5, sc2tog twice (9)

ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing and make one more.

Using black embroidery floss, stitch the word “Trouble” on the front of one piece.

Sew the sides of the t-shirt using the long tails. Make sure to positiont the pieces onto Punk Boy first then sew the sides up.

Using black yarn, stitch a few stitches at each shoulder to make the black coloured shoulders of Punk Boy’s shirt.

Sweater: Use red yarn

ch 41, sc in 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across (40)

turn, ch 1, sc across (40)

turn, ch 1, slip stitch in the next 12 stitches, place a stitch marker at this point. sc in the next 16 stitches. Leave the last 12 sts unworked.

ch 1, turn, sc across to the stitch marker (16)

ch 1, turn, sc across (16)

ch 1, turn, sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc 6, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc (16)

Fasten off. This time you don’t need a long tail. Weave in end and place faux sweater piece around Punk Boy’s waist and sew in place with scrap red yarn or embroidery thread.

And there you have it! A big brother crocheted Punk Boy!

I am thinking about making a video with instructions on how to crochet the milk bottles, soda cans, sunglasses, shoes etc from some of the LOL dolls, so stay tuned for that. And of course, I’ll post the written instructions on this blog if you prefer that.

 

 

How To Crochet a Basic LOL Inspired Doll Body

20181003_123417

I’ve been promising this one on my Youtube channel forver, and I’ve finally gotten around to putting it together.  So without too much gabbing, here’s the written version of the LOL Doll inspired body.  You can check out the video tutorial here: https://youtu.be/3sTen66GdyY

Time Needed: This one took awhile because there are a lot of parts. I would say give it at least 3 hours.

Skill Needed: Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, sc, dc, hdc, crochet in the round, joining, back loops only, etc. Some sewing.

Materials Needed:

  • Size G crochet hook
  • skin tone coloured worsted weight yarn
  • stuffing
  • yarn sewing needed
  • stitch markers
  • scissors

20181003_123419

Begin at the top of the head with skin tone coloured yarn

ch 2, sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook

2 sc in each stitch around (12)

2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next stitch around (18)

2 sc in next stitch, 2 sc around (24)

2 sc in next stitch, 3 sc around (30)

2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc 12, repeat (36)

“2 sc in next 2 stitches, sc 16,” repeat (40)

sc around for 5 rounds

“sc2tog 2 times, 16 sc,” repeat (36)

“sc2tog 3 times, 12 sc” repeat (30)

sc2tog, 3 sc around (24)

sc2tog, 2 sc around (18)

start stuffing

sc2tog, 1 sc around (12)

sc around for 2 rounds (12)

We’re beginning the body here – do not fasten off, just continue in the round

2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc around (18)

sc around (18)

2 sc in next stitch, 2 sc around (24)

sc around for 2 rounds (24)

2 sc in the next stitch, 3 sc around (30)

In back loops only: sc around (30)

sc around in both loops

sc2tog, 3 sc around (24)

20181003_123441

We begin the legs here. Again, do not fasten off, continue building.

sc to the middle back of you’re not already there.

skip 12 stitches, sc to make 1st leg hole

sc around only the one leg (12)

keep stuffing

sc2tog, 2 sc around (9)

sc around for 5 rounds (9)

sc2tog, 1 sc around (6)

make sure to finish stuffing.

fasten off leaving a tail. Weave between the last row of loops and pull first leg opening closed.

Attach yarn to unworked stitch for second leg.

sc around (12)

sc2tog, 2 sc around (9)

sc around for 5 rounds (9)

sc2tog, 1 sc around (6)

make sure to finish stuffing.

Fasten off leaving a tail and weave it through the last row of loops and pull second leg closed. Use the extra yarn to sew up the crotch if needed.

20181003_123439

 

Arms (Make 2 with skin tone coloured yarn)

ch 2, sc 3 in 2nd ch from the hook

2 sc in each stitch (6)

sc around for 2 rounds (6)

sc2tog once, 4 sc (5)

sc around for 3 rounds (5)

Fasten off. No need for stuffing since the arm is so small. Sew arms to the side of the body at shoulders.

I will include a pattern for the ears in the patterns for the individual dolls since they seem to fit onto the doll in different areas for each.

This is the basic doll body pattern that I will use for each doll pattern that I release.

Stay tuned for the instructions for making Punk Boy facial features and clothes next!

20181025_140140

How To Crochet Pokemon of the Week No. 608 – Lampent

This week’s Pokemon is Lampent!

250px-608Lampent

Isn’t he cute? He’s the evolve of Litwick and will evolve into Chandalure.

Anyway, when I went to find a pattern for Lampent, I came up with bupkiss. So, I made my own.

You can see the video version of this pattern on my Youtube channel. Also head over there if it’s still March 2018 to enter to win handmade Lampent and the other three Pokemon of the week for March. They are all so cute!

On with the pattern!

Skill Needed:

Easy – knowledge of basic crochet techniques – crochet in the round, sc, hdc, join

Time Needed:

Lampent is a relatively small project. It should only take an afternoon to make him.

Supplies Needed:

  • size G crochet hook (or any hook that will make a tight crochet with no holes showing for stuffing)
  • worsted weight white yarn
  • worsted weight black yarn
  • scraps of light blue and yellow felt
  • hot glue and glue gun
  • stuffing
  • scissors, yarn needle

20180315_141738

Lamp Bulb:

Using white yarn:

ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook

inc around (12)

1 sc, 1 inc around (18)

2 sc, 1 inc around (24)

3 sc, 1 inc around (30)

4 sc, 1 inc around (36)

sc around for 4 rounds (36 stitches in each round)

4 sc, 1 dec around (30)

3 sc, 1 dec around (24)

2 sc, 1 dec around (18)

1 sc, 1 dec around (12)

Stuff project

dec around (6)

Fasten off leaving a tail to weave into last row and pull closed.

Lampshade Hat:

With Black Yarn:

ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook

1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (6)

sc around for 2 rounds (6 stitches in each round)

inc in every stitch around (12)

1 sc, 1 inc around (18)

2 sc, 1 inc around (24)

3 sc, 1 inc around (30)

4 sc, 1 inc around (36)

5 sc, 1 inc around (42)

sc around (42)

6 sc, 1 inc around (48)

sc around (48)

Fasten off and weave in end.

Bottom Lamp Stand:

With Black Yarn:

ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook

1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc (6)

inc around (12)

sc around (12)

In Back Loop Only – Decrease around (6)

Sc around in both loops for 3 rounds (6 stitches in each round)

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Attach black yarn to the front loops left from the round we did in the back loops.

ch 1, sc in same stitch. “2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next stitch” around. Join to the beginning stitch. Fasten off and weave in end. (This will build Lampent’s little ridge he had on his lamp stand. See video if you need more explanation).

Arms:

With Black Yarn:

ch 36

turn, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and all the way to end of row.

Turn, ch 1, hdc in every stitch to end.

Do not fasten off.

Fold along short end and,

ch 1, sc through both ends to close and form a tube.

Pipe cleaner can be inserted after or while you are stitching the tube (see video for further explanation if needed).

Assembly:

Stuff bottom lamp stand piece and sew to bottom of white bulb.

Find centre of the arms piece and sew it onto the lampstand as arms.

Find a good spot of situate the lampshade hat, and stitch in place on top of bulb. Stitch this more from the centre of the hat, rather than the edges in order to have the edges extend like a lamp shade.

cut out two small circles of yellow felt and a stylized “6” sort of shape (refer to picture) out of light blue for the mouth of Lampent. Glue or sew in place on the face.

20180315_141804

 

 

 

 

How to Crochet Pokemon 597: Ferroseed

So I’m playing a little game because I got tired of trying to decide which Pokemon to make next. I found a random Pokemon generator online and decided to let that decide for me. Each week it will pick the new “Pokemon of the Week” and I’ll make it. If the pick already has a pattern, I’ll follow that. If it doesn’t, I’ll make the pattern and post it here and on my Youtube Channel (you should subscribe… seriously… I’m giving away a month’s worth of handmade Pokemon on the channel at the end of March).

 

This week’s Pokemon is Ferroseed. He’s no. 597.

250px-597FerroseedSince I couldn’t find a pattern online, I’ve made one which I will share below.

Skill Needed:

Easy. Knowledge of basic crochet stitches (sc, increase, decrease, crochet in the round)

Time Needed:

It’s a pretty fast project. I would set aside about 2  hours to get it done.

Supplies Needed:

White worsted weight yarn

Dark grey or black worsted weight yarn

Green worsted weight yarn

Size H crochet hook

Stuffing

Scrap felt in yellow, green and black for eyes

Start with body of Ferroseed:

In white

ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook

2 sc in each stitch around (12)

1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch around (18)

sc in each stitch around (18)

sc in the next 2 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch around (24)

Sc around (24) – switch to dark grey yarn at the end of the round

In grey: sc around (24). Switch back to white yarn at the end of the round

In White: sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch around (30)

Sc around (30)

Sc around (30)

sc in the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch around (36). Switch to grey at the end of the round.

In grey: sc around (36). Switch back to white yarn at the end of the round.

In white: sc around (36)

sc in the next 5 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch around (42)

sc around (42)

sc in the next 5 stitches, sc2tog over the next 2 stitches around (36). Switch to grey yarn at the end of the round.

In Grey: sc around (36). Switch back to white yarn at the end of the round. You can fasten off grey yarn at this point.

In white: sc in the next 4 stitches, sc2tog over the next 2 stitches around (30)

sc in the next 3 stitches, sc2tog over the next 2 stitches around (24)

sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog over the next 2 stitches around (18)

begin stuffing the project at this point.

sc in the next stitch, sc2tog over the next 2 stitches around (12)

sc2tog around (6)

Fasten off leaving a bit of a tail. Weave tail through last round stitches and pull to tighten. Secure and hide end inside project.

20180227_103637

Spikes (thorns):

Use green yarn and H hook.

Loosely ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook

2 sc in the first stitch, 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches (4)

2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next stitch around (6)

sc around (6)

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing spike onto Ferroseed’s body.

Make 12 spikes in total.

Sew spikes onto Ferroseed. I placed one on his forehead. I placed 8 in a circular pattern around the edges. I placed 3 spikes to cover up the colour changes on Ferroseed’s back.

Cut shapes from felt for eyes. Green is a five sided shape. Yellow is a half circle. Black is a slightly oval slit. Glue or sew into place just under middle grey line.

Attach some grey yarn to a yarn needle and sew a few details (freckles?) onto Ferroseed’s body. You can use the photo for reference.
20180227_103627 Ta da!

I hope you like Ferroseed.

The link to the video tutorial is here.

 

The Scraptastic Toasty Toes Rag Rug Post

(This post was originally posted on my personal blog: October 15, 2013)

 

One of the most fabulous ways to use up really tiny scraps of fabric (and you all know that I would be a huge pack rat if I didn’t think of ways to get rid of fabric that I can’t bear to throw out) is to make a rag rug.

And I just happen to have icy toes when I’m doing the ironing.

?

What?

I need a rug underneath those poor icy tootsies – especially in the winter.

And winter is coming! (Apparently this sentence makes Terry giggle every time I say it – something about Game of Thrones…)

Anywho… I finished the perfect rag rug for my sensitive toesies.

Pretty!

Unfortunately, the place that it’s destined for is not all that pretty.

Right in front of my ironing board in the laundry room/studio. There is a freezing cement floor underneath which would be the cause of my torturous time trying to press anything in the winter.

And winter is coming! *insert Terry giggles here*

 

I started this baby in July so it really didn’t take me as long as the other 2 rag rugs did which took me at least a year each to finish. This one is made out of any scrap fabric I had instead of just knits and fleece like the other two were. It worked just as well although I gotta say – the lint factor coming from the frayed ends of the cotton pieces was astronomical. I think I’ve picked the kids up from school covered in little pieces of stray cotton every. single. day. for 2 months.

 

Such a glamorous place for a pretty rug eh?

Yeah… maybe not.

But seriously needed. And who doesn’t love functional beauty? Amiright?

PS: Winter is coming!

 

The One With How to Crochet a Scrubby Bunny – The Written Pattern

scrubbybunny

I made these cute scrubby bunnies for Christmas gifts this year. It was so neat to make something with Red Heart Scrubby Yarn (and it wasn’t even a traditional wash cloth or scrubby, which is even better!)

I thought I’d share with you how I did it.

I also filmed the tutorial, so if you’d like to check out the video instead, you can click: Video Tutorial for Crocheted Scrubby Bunny

Skill Level Needed:

  • basic knowledge of crochet stitches – sc and dc
  • knowledge of how to crochet in rows and in the round

Time Needed:

  • this will take some time depending on how familiar you are with working with scrubby yarn. It takes some getting used to, but once you can figure out where the stitches are it goes pretty quickly. I would say this is a 2 hour project (maybe 3 or 4)

Supplies Needed:

  • Red Heart Scrubby yarn in 2 different colours
  • scrap of black yarn or embroidery floss for facial features
  • size H crochet hook
  • scrap of pink embroidery floss for nose
  • sewing needle and yarn needle for sewing and weaving in ends
  • stitch markers

20171223_114715

Head and Body: With main coloured Scrubby Yarn

  1. ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
  2. 2 sc in each stitch (12)
  3. 1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch around (18)
  4. 1 sc in the next 2 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch around (24)
  5. 1 sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch around (30)
  6. – 10. sc around (30)

11. sc in the next stitch, sc2tog around (20)

12. sc around (20)

13. sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch around (30)

14. sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch around (40)

15. sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch around (50)

16.-17. sc around (50)

At this point we are going to crochet in row for awhile. It is easier if you use stitch markers at both the beginning and end of the rows in order to better see where the rows are starting. Scrubby yarn makes it difficult to see!

18. sc in the next 25 stitches, turn, ch1

19. – 23. sc in 25 stitches, turn, ch1

Fasten off and weave in ends.

To make the back side of the bunny body, attach yarn to the right side of the stitches left unworked on round 17. If you need help visualizing this part, I suggest checking out the video tutorial.

Repeat rows 18. – 23. on this side. Do Not Fasten Off.

If you haven’t ch1 and turned at the end of row 23, then do so now. We are going to continue in rounds again.

24. sc around, joining the two sides (50) This will create 2 holes to insert the arms into later.

25. – 32. sc in each stitch around (50)

Fasten Off.

Weave in ends.

Outer Ears – Make 2 in main colour

  1. ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
  2. 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
  3. – 5. sc around (12)

6. sc in the next 2 stitches, 1 sc2tog around (9)

7. – 9. sc around (9)

10. 1 sc, 1 sc2tog around (6)

11.-12. sc around (6)

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing

Inner Ears – Make 2 in contrasting colour

  1. ch 12, turn, dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 3 ch, sc in chains to the end

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Sew inner ear to outer ear.

20171205_141256

Sew finished ears to head. You can also sew on the facial features at this point. I used the pink contrasting scrubby yarn for the nose of the white bunny. I used black yarn for the facial features of the pink bunny and the eyes of the white bunny.

Arms – Make 2 with main colour

  1. ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
  2. 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
  3. – 6. sc around (12)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Attach arms to armholes on body making sure that there is space for fingers to go to make it into a puppet.

The heart mid-section that I put on the white bunny was not as successful as I had hoped. I’ll paste in the pattern I used for it below, but I am also warning you that you might need to do some extra shaping to make it look like a heart. Or just leave it out. No biggie!

  1. ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
  2. 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
  3. 1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch around (18)
  4. 1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch around (24)
  5. ch 3, 3 triple crochet in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch, sl st in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, 3 triple crochet in next stitch, sl st in next stitch.

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Sew heart into place. You can shape it to desired heart shape while sewing.

Enjoy!

How To Sew Plushie Minions – the Pattern

MinionsI’ve made a series of videos with step by step instructions on how to sew plushie minions. You can access them via my Youtube channel below:

The supply list

Cutting out the Facial Features

Sew the Face, Goggles and Overalls

Sewing the Arms and Pocket

In the 4th video of the series, I make use of a pattern for the hands. In the 5th video, I make use of a pattern for the legs and feet.

Here is that pattern:

minionspattern

You should be able to right click on this pattern and save it to your computer and then print it. Depending on the size you chose for your minion, you may have to scale up or down to get the correct hands and feet.

 

How To: Crochet Jughead’s Hat from Riverdale (TV Show)

jugthumbAre you a super fan of the TV show Riverdale?

I totally am!

My favourite character is Jughead of course! So let’s make his crown beanie shall we?

Hi beanie on the show is actually knitted. But I can’t knit… so …. crochet it is!

Skill level for Jughead’s hat:

Easy. Simple crochet stitches.

Supplies Needed for Jughead’s Hat:
– A pattern for your favourite hat (beanie)20171013_190442

– Crochet Hook. I used size J because that’s what I used for the hat. You can use whichever size you used to make the hat.

– Worsted Weight yarn in grey (I used Bernat Premium in Medium Grey Heather)

– yarn needle for weaving in ends

– Scrap felt in white and red for the details on the hat

– needle and thread to sew on details or hot glue to attach them

 

To start: Crochet your hat using your favourite pattern

To Make Crown:
– Chain 6

Single Crochet in 2nd chain from hook and in each ch to the end (5)

ch 1 and turn. Sc 5 to the end of the row.

ch 2, turn. sc in 2nd ch from the hook and each stitch to the end (6)

Turn, ch 1 and sc 6

ch 2, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each stitch to end (7)

ch1, turn, sc 7

ch 2, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each stitch to the end (8)

ch 1, turn, sc 8

ch 2, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each stitch to the end (9)

ch 1, turn, sc 8 leaving the last stitch unworked.

ch 1, turn, sc 8 to end of row

ch 1, turn, sc 7, leaving last stitch unworked

ch 1, turn, sc to the end of the row (7)

Continue until you get to 5 sc:
ch 1, turn, sc 6 leaving last stitch unworked. Ch 1, turn, 6 sc to end of row. Ch 1, turn, sc 5 leaving last stitch unworked, ch 1, turn, sc 5 to the end of the row.

I did a couple of rows of sc 5 to space the crown points out a bit. You can decide if you want them closer together or not.

Continue working up and down the points of the crown until your piece can fit all the way around the brim of your hat.

Make sure to end at the bottom of a 5 sc row

Crochet the 2 short ends of the crown piece together.

ch 1, sc evenly up to the top point of crown to clean up the jagged edges.

sc into the top stitch, ch 1 and then sc again into the same top stitch to form a little point.

sc evenly back down the point. Keep going in this manner until you’ve cleaned up the entire top.

Starting at the back seam, crochet or sew your crown to the edge of the hat.

Cut a tiny rectangle and a red circle from felt and sew or glue them in place on the crown

20171013_190043This pattern is free to use. Please don’t copy and sell it as your own pattern (I’m not a crochet expert and this pattern hasn’t been tested so it’s not really worthy enough for a paid pattern). You may sell the finished hat if you’d like. I’d appreciate a mention as the pattern designer, but it’s not necessary. Jughead is probably a trademarked character, so sell finished products at your own risk.

 

I’d love to see your Jughead creations! Why not post them in below or if you’ve come here from Ravelry, I’d love to see them posted on there too.

The link to the video version of this pattern is here: https://youtu.be/1mlCDYbJifg

How To: Crochet a Dobby the House Elf Hat (from Harry Potter)

Hello…. long time no see eh?

Today we’re going to get right into it. You wanna know how to crochet a Dobby the House Elf Hat right?

So here we go!

Materials Needed:

Worsted weight yarn in Oatmeal, Green and Black

White Felt scrap

Size I crochet hook

Pattern for your favourite hat

A tiny bit of white yarn or embroidery floss for the eye detail.

A tiny bit of brown or black yarn for the mouth detail

A yarn needle, embroidery needle or hot glue gun for attaching the details.

Dobby Finished 1

First step is to make the hat. I’m not going to re-invent the wheel by adding a hat pattern to this post. Everyone has their own favourite in the size that suits them and there are tons of really good free patterns out there to choose from.

I will link the one I used for my Dobby Hat here:

Basic HDC Beanie Pattern on Ravelry.

Once you finish your hat in the desired size, we will begin the ears.

The ears are worked in rounds (no joining) with oatmeal coloured yarn and an I sized hook.

EARS (make 2):

  1. ch 2 – in second ch from hook, sc 3
  2. sc increase around (6)
  3. 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches, then 1 increase around (8)
  4. sc increase around (16)
  5. sc in each of the next 6 stitches then increase 10 times (26)
  6. decrease 2 times and then sc in each of the next 20 stitches (24)
  7. sc around
  8. sc around
  9. sc in the next 11 stitches, decrease 2 times, sc in the next 9 stitches (22)
  10. to 14. sc around (22 for 5 rounds)

15. 1 sc then decrease 2 times then sc in the next 7 stitches then 2 increases then sc in the next 8 stitches (22)

16. 2 decreases then sc in the next 8 stitches then 2 increases then sc in the next 8 stitches (22)

17. and 18. sc around (22)

Fasten off leaving enough tail to sew ear onto hat.

Dobby Pieces Nose:

Nose is worked in the round with oatmeal coloured yarn and an I sized hook.

  1. ch 2 – in second ch from hook sc 3
  2. sc in the next 2 stitches and then increase in the last stitch (4)
  3.  and 4. sc around (4)
  4. increase, 1 sc, increase, 1 sc (6)
  5. sc in the next 2 stitches, increase, sc in the next 2 stitches, increase (8)

6. to 8. sc around (8)

9. sc in the next 3 stitches, increase, sc in the next 3 stitches, increase (10)

10. to 14. sc around (5 rounds of 10)

Fasten off leaving enough tail to sew nose onto Dobby hat.

Eyelids (make 2):

Eyelids are worked in rows with oatmeal coloured yarn and an I sized hook.

  1. ch 12, sc in second ch from hook and every ch until the end, ch 1, turn (10)
  2. dec over next 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, decrease (8)

Fasten off. You can leave enough of a tail to sew eyelid to hat or weave in end if you’re going to use the hot glue gun for eyelids.

Black part of eyes (make 2):

Black part of eyes is worked in the round with black yarn and an I sized crochet hook.

ch 3

in second ch from hook hdc 6, join to first sc and fasten off. Weave in end if using hot glue or use tail to sew eye pieces together later.

Green part of eyes (make 2):

Green part of eyes is worked in the round with green yarn and an I sized hook.

ch 3

  1. in second ch from hook hdc 6 (6)
  2. hdc inc in each stitch around (12)

Fasten off. Weave in end of using hot glue or use tail to sew eye pieces together later.

Finishing!:

Sew ears in place on hat. Sew nose in place on hat. For eyes, I used a piece of white yarn to make eye detail on black piece of eye by sewing it through both the black and the green pieces of the eye. Cut round pieces from white felt that are slight larger than the green crocheted circles that you made. Glue or sew white felt in place on hat and then layer the green and black pieces (with the white detailing in place) on top and glue or sew down. Glue or sew eyelid in place slightly above eyes. To make the shaping for the bridge of the nose, thread a piece of oatmeal yarn onto a yarn needle making sure to knot it at the end really well. Then insert the yarn from the inside of the hat near the inside of the eyes at the top of the bridge and pull yarn through. Next, insert the needle one stitch below where you entered and pull through to inside. Next, insert yarn on the inside of the opposite eye (across the bridge of the nose). This will make the bridge of the nose scrunch up into the shape we want for the nose, Pull yarn through tightly so that it scrunches and insert it one stitch down from where you inserted it last and pull through to the inside. Next, insert yarn on the opposite side of nose and continue working your way down the bridge of the nose in this manner until you’ve got the desired shaping.

Ta da! Dobby the House elf!
Dobby Finished 2

A note on using this pattern. You may use it for free to make for your friends and family. I’m pretty sure Dobby is a registered trademark of some movie company – therefore I wouldn’t recommend you trying to sell Dobby hats. Because of this trademark, this pattern is free to use (I’m making no money from it) but please don’t sell it. If you do make and sell these hats, it is not my fault if they get removed from your shop by Etsy. I warned you! hehehe..

 

Other than that, you’re free to make and enjoy this pattern and I’d love to see your Dobby creations. Please share and comment below!

Mumzee’s Temperature Blanket

I know it’s been awhile since I’ve posted anything on TawnyBee.com. ACK!

There has been a lot happening. The most exciting of which is a project that I’ve started with my son. He’s been showing an extreme interest in video making and Youtube lately. Since he’s a little young to have his own Youtube channel (in our parental opinion, not in his of course), I’ve started my own crafty Youtube channel and he’s been the director and producer and editor. He’s made the intro and the trailer and has spliced together our first video.

Check it out here: Mumzee’s first video

You should definitely subscribe and like and comment. And stay tuned for the next video which will feature our topic today:

The Temperature Blanket

I’ve sure you’ve heard of these. Basically you decide on some colours based on ranges of temperatures and then crochet a line each day corresponding with this temperature colour. At first i was going to copy one of the temperature charts from online, but as I was looking at them, I realized that it wasn’t going to work for our Winnipeg temperatures. The lowest temperature that I could find on the charts online was -23C. That would make one third of the blanket at the beginning and one third of the blanket at the end of the year all the same colour.

So I made up my own chart which I will outline below with some photos of my progress so far. Winnipeg temperatures bounce around a lot so there has been a different coloured stripe everyday this week with only one repeated colour (not together however).

Temperature Blanket Temperature Blanket1Here are the colours I’m using:

+31C and above = red

26 – 30C = pink

21 – 25C = orange

16 – 20C = yellow

11 – 15C = light green (lime)

5 – 10C = green

1 – 5 = light blue

-4 – -5C = medium blue

-9 – -5C = teal

-14 – -10C = navy blue

-19 – -15C = violet

-24 – -20C = purple

-29 – -25 = grey

-34 – -30C = white

colder than that = black

I am making the blanket that fits on a double bed. I used an H hook and chained 260 to start. I crochet one row per day according to the temperature at noon.

If you want to crochet along that would be awesome! It’s still not too far into the year to catch up. I will try to keep updating along the way and would love to see your progress as well. Let me know in the comments if you’re thinking about doing a temperature blanket of your own. 😀